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Enticing
Flavors of Thai Food by John Hoskin
www.travelthailand.com - The number one internet
source of travel information
in Thailand
Thai's of earlier times, like their descendants
today,
placed enormous importance on the rituals and
politeness of eating. This concern was shown in
the way they greeted each other informally. If
they saw a friend passing their home, they would
immediately ask: "Have you eaten yet?" This not
just out of politeness. If the answer was no, the
friend would be invited in, and something would be
prepared to eat right then and there.
Thai-style health food
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Cooking schools
Food streets & hawker streets
Most of the dishes people cooked in those days were simple to make,
using
ingredients that could be found nearby. In the kitchen there would be
chili, shrimp paste, fish sauce, sour tamarind, garlic, shallots, and
dried fish.
Fresh
indigenous Thai vegetables like phak bung, phak krachet, krathin and
bamboo shoots could be found growing almost anywhere. A meal made up
of nam phrik kapi (chili paste), grilled fish, boiled phak bung
leaves, and perhaps a hot kaeng som curry could be prepared in just
half an hour or so.
Traditionally, Thai food used commonly found plants and meats as
ingredients. Fish
was by far the most widely used meat, as it was available in all
seasons, wet or dry.
In the rainy season, when the rivers and canals were full, there were
obviously plenty
of local fresh-water fish. Even when the weather turned dry and hot,
there were still
catfish, snake-heads and other species to be found in ponds and lakes.
Some were cooked, others were stored. Small fish would be fermented to
make pla ra and fish
sauce to be kept for future use. Larger ones would be salted.
Chicken, duck, and
pork were eaten only on special occasions. Beef and the meat of
the water buffalo were not eaten by Thais of earlier eras, as they
revered the animals
as man's helpers in the fields.
Vegetables consisted
of local edible plants, of which there were many; Thai cooks
used a total of 255 species. These fell into five categories: leaf
plants, root plants,
edible flowers, seed pods, and fruiting plants. Most of these plants
appeared only in a certain season. Therefore, in every part of
Thailand, the foods people ate would change as the months passed.
But there was more to
preparing these Thai dishes than just gathering some local
plants and meats and throwing them into a pot. Flavors had to be
balanced and
blended. Nam phrik kapi, the most popular of the Thai repertoire of
chili sauces,
combines heat from chilies, sweetness, and saltiness. To create a
proper balance of flavors, small,
pea-sized eggplants called makhuea phuang are added to give it a
needed bitter tang.
If they are left out, the dish loses its characteristic taste and no
longer qualifies as
nam phrik.
Dishes eaten during the winter, such as the soup-like kaeng liang made
from gourds
or other bland vegetables, need the heat of peppercorns and shallots,
as well as the fragrant leaf of the basil plant to make them savory
and appetizing.
Kaeng som, a soup-like
dish that combines sourness and sweetness, comes close to being a Thai
"national dish", as variants of it are eaten in all regions of the
country. In
the Central Plains and the North, tamarind (makham piak) is used to
give it its sour bite. North easterners use the acid leaves of the okra plant (called
bai phodi or "just-enough leaves" in Thai because no matter how many
of them are added, the sourness
is somehow always just right). In the South, if there is no sour
tamarind available,
another type called makham khaek is substituted.
Kathi, or coconut
cream, is common in Thai cooking. In earlier times, however, it was
not used at all. When curries that make use of it like kaeng kari and
kaeng massaman were imported from India, they brought the use of
coconut cream and their characteristic spices with them. Eventually,
the creamy extract of coconut meat had found a central place in
recipes that we today consider completely Thai, such as kaeng khiao
wan, the spicy curry that is so popular everywhere.
Sweets that
make use of coconut cream were also introduced from India.
Custard-like khanom mo kaeng is an example. The original version from
India used flour, sugar, and milk, but milk was scarce at the time
when it found its way into Thai kitchens, so
cooks used coconut cream instead.
Fried foods also came from abroad, but their place of origin was
China. The iron frying utensils called katha in Thai originally had to
be imported from China, and the
technique of cooking using hot oil came together with the introduction
of Chinese vegetables that taste best when prepared that way, such as
Chinese broccoli and
Chinese radish.
Noodle dishes like the
kuai tiao soup sold on street stalls everywhere also originated
in China. Those found in Thailand have been given a strong Thai
character. The best known is kuai tiao phad Thai, the "Thai fry" which
has made a reputation for itself all
over the world.
The original Thai
style ice cream was sold from little boats that were paddled along the
city's canals. Its main ingredient was coconut cream, but not the
extremely thick and heavy kind. It was not especially sweet, either.
The ice cream was stirred and chilled
until it was of a runny, slushy consistency, rather than hardened to
the point where it could be formed into scoops, as it is today.
Ice cream is not alone
in having been adapted and altered under the influence of new
or imported trends and techniques. Centuries ago, food prepared for
the royal court was the product of extremely elaborate and complex
cooking methods. Khao chae, for example, was originally a special dish
served to the court on Songkran, the traditional Thai New Year. The most
fastidious care was given to selecting every grain of rice to ensure
that it was perfect, with no husk adhering to it.
When served in the chilled, scented water that gives this dish its
unique character, it is delicious. The various side dishes are easy to
prepare :fried and shredded salted beef, fried leaf vegetables,
Chinese radish, and other simple things. But as served in the
palace, these side dishes were delicacies whose preparation required
the highest
artistry. Fresh vegetables served with the royal khao chae were
carved, for example,
often to form ornamental sculptures of fantastic delicacy. Such items
were part of a special culinary repertoire known as Royal Cuisine.
Today, the original
range of Thai dishes has spread out to include many imports and
innovations, while the old recipes they are based upon become
increasingly hard to
find. The sour-salty-hot salad known as yam was once almost
exclusively a vegetable dish. But as time went on, approaches to the
dish diversified. Glass noodles are now commonly added.
Vegetables used in
making these evolving dishes permitted new shades of variety. As one type went out of season, another would appear and be
experimentally substituted, leading to tasty new discoveries.
Old-fashioned kaeng liang nam tao, a kind of
traditional vegetable soup made with green gourds, tasted fine when
made with local pumpkin. As new vegetables from abroad appeared in the
markets, it was found that interesting versions could be made from
baby corn or shredded carrots. But with these additions came
depletion's. Few among the new generation of cooks, for example,
knows how to use bai maeng lak, one of the fragrant types of basil
that lent its
distinctive aroma to so many of the dishes relished by Thai's of
earlier eras.
Food is like music created through the ages to give pleasure, down
to the latest generation with its contemporary tastes. Today, many
more people buy the food they
eat than cook it themselves. A wide variety of commercially prepared
foods is therefore available to keep everyone happy. If a food shop
offers cooking that people don't like, it won't last long, but on the
other hand, the more new and exciting recipes a commercial cook can
devise, the more people he or she will attract.
Therefore, the art of
cooking as it is today doesn't really differ that much from what it was in the old days. It is an organic, growing tradition that
continues to recruit the ingredients at hand to produce its
distinctive, unmistakably Thai creations.
Thai-style health food
Grassroots wisdom
associates good health with the right variety of food. Traditional
Thai medicines have meanwhile been for centuries the only dependable
curative offered by local healers. These medicines have mostly been
derived from indigenous plants found
in the wild. Though modern practice has changed medical thinking,
belief in natural medicines is still strong.
Most of the ingredients used in Thai cooking carry medicinal benefits.
In the past,
Thai thinkers studied the effects of natural conditions which brought
on various
physical ailments. They counteracted them with natural products that
offered the
opposite effect: cooling herbs or fruits for an imbalance of heat, for
instance.
The summer heat is
relentless in Thailand. It activates the element of fire in our
bodies, causing headaches, thirst, and sometimes constipation. The
conventional antidote is simple - anything sweet or bitter will do!
Tamarinds, oranges, acacia, gourd, pineapples, and water melons are all effective. Greasy or spicy foods
are advised
against, as they will only heat up the body. Durian, jangfruit, and
longans may be tempting, but they have similar consequences.
The element of wind blows blustery inside the body during the wet
season. It is easy
to catch a cold or suffer flatulence. The cure: add some spices. Fiery
vegetables such
as chilies, sweet basil, fennel, and ginger can warm up the body and
soothe these unpleasant conditions.
In winter, the commonest complaints are dry skin, headaches, running
nose, and indigestion. Hot, bitter, and sour foods are recommended.
Seek out dishes containing peppers, chilies, turmeric, galingale, or
other spicy ingredients.
Cooking schools
The Oriental
Hotel : Long recognized
for its outstanding cuisine, the Oriental reveals
the secrets of Thai cooking in a complete course that explores all its
subtle details.
The school is run by some of the country's most experienced chefs and
lecturers. Conducted in English, each class of the four-day course
consists of a brief lecture, a demonstration, and hands-on
preparation. Tuition includes fruit and vegetable carving
and menu making. Contact the Thai Cooking School, The Oriental Hotel,
48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok, Thailand. Tel: (662) 2380265. Fax: (662)
4397587.
Dusit Thani Hotel :
Benjarong Royal Thai Cuisine at the Dusit Thani Hotel is one of
the most sumptuous Thai restaurants in Bangkok. Its head chef runs the
Benjarong Cooking Class every Saturday. Dishes demonstrated are highly
sophisticated,
including many served at the royal palace. The school also conducts
fruit carving
courses. Contact Benjarong Cooking Class, Dusit Thani Hotel, Bangkok,
Thailand.
Tel: (662) 2366400, 2367238.
The Landmark Hotel
: A team from
the hotel's famous Nipa restaurant teaches
novices how to master the art of Thai cuisine. In a short time,
students will be able to prepare their own curries, soups and other
delicious Thai dishes. The Landmark's
step-by-step Thai cookbook is free of charge to participants in the
five-day course. Contact the Landmark Bangkok, Sukhumvit Road,
Bangkok, Thailand.
Tel: (662) 2540404.
Siam
Inter-Continental Bangkok :
The hotel presents a cooking class featuring the full range of typical
Thai food from appetizers to favorite main courses to traditional
desserts. The course is conducted by expert Thai chefs. Contact Siam
Inter-Continental Bangkok, Rama I Road, Bangkok, Thailand. Tel: (662)
2530355.
The Boathouse,
Phuket :
Learning to cook Thai food is a unique experience you can take home
with you. The Boathouse runs Thai cooking classes every Saturday and
Sunday morning. Classes are limited to ten participants to encourage
personal interaction by the students. Each recipe presented has been
selected for ease of preparation and adaptability to Western kitchens.
The resort's executive chef leads the class step by step and explains
the processes and techniques in fluent English. Hands-on experience is
emphasized. Culinary Workshops at The Boathouse, Patak Road, Kata
Beach, Phuket, Thailand. Tel: (66-76) 330015-7 Fax: (66-76) 330561.
Bangkok office:(662) 4392312, 4394740-4.
UFM Baking &
Cooking School : The comprehensive courses of UFM Baking & Cooking
School can transform you from a novice to an expert. Dishes both
simple and complicated, as well as regional specialties, are
demonstrated by experienced chefs. Specialized courses on nam phrik
(chili pastes), yam (spicy salads), and others are also available.
Contact UFM Baking & Cooking School, Sukhumvit 33, Bangkok, Thailand.
Tel: (662) 2590620-3.
Modern Women
Institute :
The Modern Women Institute organizes classes in Thai, Chinese, and
European cooking and bakery. The Thai cooking classes offer an
opportunity to learn all the basic knowledge needed to make curries,
chilli pastes, noodles, and Thai desserts. Contact the Modern Women
Institute, Samsen, Bangkok, Thailand. Tel: (662) 2792831, 2792834.
The Chiang Mai Thai
Cookery School : Two experienced Thai chefs run casual cooking classes
of one, two, or three days in fluent English at Chiang Mai Thai
Cookery School. Traditional northern dishes are included such as nam
phrik ong, or northern style chilli paste, for which students will
learn how to use the mortar and
pestle. Students are served lunches at khan toke tables while the
chefs demonstrate
the use of northern cooking utensils and serving dishes. Contact the
Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School, Moon Muang Road, Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Tel: (66-53) 206388. Fax: (66-53) 206387.
Food streets & hawker streets
Yaowarat:
Bangkok's Chinatown
houses some of the best and most expensive
Chinese restaurants in the city, along with many of the best and
cheapest food stalls, especially at night. The restaurants mostly
specialise in southern Chinese cooking,
with noodles, seafood and, at lunch time, dim sum dumplings dominating
the menus.
Large restaurants
line the bustling Yaowarat Road, but venturing into sois, or
lanes, will lead you to less impressive yet equally enjoyable
establishments. The commonest dish is undoubtedly kuai tiao, or
noodles. Hundreds of kuai tiao shops dot
the area. Each vendor has his or her own recipe: kuai tiao pla
(noodles with fish), kuai tiao pet (with duck), or kuai tiao kai (with
chicken).
Yaowarat never
sleeps.
At night the neon glow from hundreds of hawker stalls electrifies the
atmosphere of the streets. Ad hoc seafood's stalls line the sidewalks,
drawing such crowds that late-comers have to wait for seats. Suki yaki
stalls are
equally thronged. Long queues in front of stalls selling bird's nest
soups indicate the everlasting popularity of this conventional
nutritious sweet. Other favorite dishes
include khao tom, (boiled rice), khao kha mu (stewed pork leg on
rice), and many,
many more.
Phahurat:
Taking a short walk
from Yaowarat's Chinatown to Phahurat's little India is
like taking a transcendental journey between two different worlds.
Inhabited by Thai
people of Indian origin, the confined alleyways around the Phahurat
area
accommodate a number of authentic Indian restaurants, particularly
those offering
North Indian cuisine. Alternatively other sub-continental foods such
as Punjabi and Pakistani are also plentifully available. The
atmosphere around Phahurat is less
chaotic than Yaowarat, yet the vivacity can still be felt in this
small but thriving neighborhood.
Sukhumvit Road:
There is no shortage of eating places on Sukhumvit. Some people even
say that from any spot along the road, you are within 100 meters of at
least one restaurant. And the food could not be more cosmopolitan. At
its western end, around
Soi Nana, an enclave of Pakistani and Middle Eastern restaurants fills
the sois with the aroma of spices, earning this area the name "Little Arabia".
These include casual outdoor cafes such as Al Hossini and luxurious
indoor places such as Shiraz.
Further up the road Indian cuisine takes over, with restaurants
offering both northern
and southern Indian specialities. From the elegance of Rang Mahal on
the top floor
of Rembrandt Hotel to the modest ambience of Mrs Balbir's, the rich
Indian cuisine
is presented in all its variety.
European and American
cooking balance the equation, with Italian, French, British, German,
and Mexican restaurants lining the road and presenting a variety of
options
in terms of menus, atmosphere, and prices. Sukhumvit 55, also known as
Soi
Thonglor, and its labyrinthine branches are also full of restaurants
of every kind.
Then there is Thai
food. Both authentic and nouvelle dishes can be found at small,
sparingly decorated restaurants or lavishly ornate ones, along the
pavements, and in
the markets. The food is good everywhere. After all, it's the taste
and not always the
place that really matters.
Silom Road:
Several food streets are linked to this road in Bangkok's busiest
area.
Many restaurants are found along the main thoroughfare, but there is
an even greater number tucked away in its side alleys. As if awakened
by street lights, seafood stalls sprout along the section near
Saladaeng Intersection after sunset until late at night.
The nearby Convent Road offers everything from Indonesian to an Irish
tavern. Opposite, a crush of Japanese restaurants makes Soi Thaniya
into a lively walkway for Japanese visitors and sushi lovers of all
nationalities.
Thai food is available
in palace style and street style, side by side. The best selection
of the former can be found in Soi Pipat. Find the Thai version of fast
food at Soi Prachaen's night market and Soi Lalai Sap's lunch market.
Dozens of vendors sell
quick meals such as kuai tiao noodle and khao kaeng curry rice. A good
one-stop
eating place is Silom Village in Soi 24, where food in a variety of
Thai styles is served
in a relaxing atmosphere.
Siam Square:
This shopping area is crammed with medium to high-priced eateries
as well as American fast-food outlets. Whether you crave Thai,
European, or Chinese foods, there is a place for you somewhere in this
fashionable area. Traditional Thai restaurants are flanked by gaudy
fast-food franchises and Japanese suki parlours. Soi
1 has conventional Chinese restaurants.
Bangkok's branch of
Hard Rock Cafe is just up the street. Undecided? Family
restaurants such as S&P or New Light have everything in one menu.
Dozens of food
stalls sell meatballs, grilled squid. and fried bananas along the
walkways that connect
the main streets.
Soi Lang Suan:
Fashionable restaurants in Soi Lang Suan present interesting eating
possibilities at medium to high prices. Also home to some of the most
popular jazz pubs in the city, the
street's flashy atmosphere attracts the money crowd in droves
after sundown. Like Sukhumvit Road, Lang Suan offers a diverse mix of
Thai, Asian,
and European influences aided by specialized venues such as the
vegetarian-oriented
Whole Earth Restaurant and the Chinese favorite Nguan Lee.
Bang Lamphu:
Shoestring travellers flock to Bang Lamphu, especially the area
around Khao Sarn Road. Most eating places in this area cater for
budget-conscious diners.
Many guest houses on Khao Sarn Road have open-air cafes serving
standard Thai and Chinese dishes. Other decent possibilities include
Indian, Jewish, and Muslim restaurants. Many unassuming Chinese dim
sum and noodle places may be found
along the adjacent Phra Athit Road. Bold exploration is advised in
this interesting neighborhood.
Chang Klan Road,
Chiang Mai: People know it as the Night Bazaar, but this
shopping area also has food markets hidden behind the souvenir stalls.
Kad
Anusarn is a big food plaza with miscellaneous offerings that include
authentic
northern dishes and a strong southern Chinese influence. Street stalls
display colorful Thai sweets and preserved northern fruits such as
plums.
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