Exploring Bangkok by Foot

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Take a taxi to Rattanakosin Island, site of the Grand Palace, Bang Lamphu, a short stroll to the north, has got to be the most frequented neighbourhood in town - and not just by tourists, either. Its allure is due in large part to a single street: the world-famous Khao San Road. For, love it or hate it, this strip is undeniably one of the liveliest parts of Bangkok with a diverse, constantly rotating cast of characters arriving daily from all corners of the globe.

Long before it was immortalised by Leonardo DiCaprio in the big-screen adaptation of The Beach, it was, along with Goa and Kuta Beach in Bali, a favourite pitstop on backpacker routes across Asia. But the transformation of this cheap-guesthouse central was already well underway when Alex Garland's novel was published in 1996 and today, with its plethora of salubrious hotels and luxury spas, its fast-food franchises and frappuccinos, little of Khao San's cheap-and-cheerful charm and raw, outlaw edge remains.

Although still patronised by credit card-toting "backpackers" from foreign parts, Bang Lamphu is now also a popular destination for well-heeled young locals seeking an alternative night out. Weird and wild pleasures - albeit, of the toned-down variety - still to be found here include getting yourself tattooed and pierced all over, crunching on deep-fried insects and purchasing very realistic-looking counterfeit products. One feature of the road that has remained unchanged over the years, however, is the number of scam artists on the make: drop your guard for a moment, swallow that sob story, and you, like generations of naive visitors before you, are practically begging to be ripped off!

It's only when the sun sets that this place really starts hopping. Khao San is closed to vehicles at dusk and people pack the street, piling into the bars and restaurants and cafe's. Those in search of a quieter evening can escape the blaring music and glaring neon by venturing down leafy Ram Butri Road, which runs roughly parallel, crossing over Chakrabongse Road to Soi Ram Butri (also pedestrianised after dark) or wandering down Chakrabongse to the much more subdued Phra Athit Road, a popular late-night haunt of artists and trendy college students.

These environs are not all about dreadlocks and hangovers, however. Situated in one of the longest settled quarters of the city, Bang Lamphu boasts many old shophouses and some even more venerable remnants of the past. On Phra Athit Road alone, the centuries-old Phra Sumen Fort stands close to several well-preserved old palaces and mansions where significant historical figures once lived.

Bang Lamphu Market, which sells food, household items and clothes, has been serving the local community for decades. And for further evidence of this neighbourhood's multi-ethnic identity, you need look no further than the plethora of mosques, Chinese shrines and major Buddhist temples with which it is dotted.

Wat Bowon Niwet Vihara is a first-class royal temple (there are three categories) with a rich history that stretches back to the early 19th century. Prince Mongkut was its first abbot and lived within its walls for 14 years before leaving the monkhood to become King Rama IV. His great-grandson, King Bhumibol Adulyadej, also resided here after his ordination, as did the present monarch’s son,HRHCrown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn.

When Rama I became king in 1782 this temple was already in existence. He later donated it to the kingdom’s ethnic- Mon community in gratitude for the help Mon people gave in repelling three separate Burmese invasions between 1785 and 1787. Originally called Wat Klang Na because of its location in the middle (klang ) of rice fields (na ), it was renamed Wat Chana Songkhram (meaning ‘‘victory in war’’) by the king and designated a royal temple. Nowadays, visitors often park their cars in its compound which also makes a convenient shortcut (up to 6pm when the gate is locked) for pedestrians heading from Khao San to Phra Athit.

In a tiny, nonsignposted alley that runs parallel to Tanao Road (behind Burger King) are the only strictly vegetarian restaurants in the area. They include the 24-hour Number One and May Kaidee; in business for over two decades, the latter now offers cookery classes.

Phra Sumen Fort, located on the corner of Phra Sumen and Phra Athit roads, is one of only two forts that remain standing from the original 14 which King Rama I had built to protect the perimeter of his newly founded capital from the marauding Burmese. Phra Sumen Fort was renovated by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration and turned into a tourist attraction to mark the city’s bicentennial in 1982.