Sukhothai's influence is also manifest on the popular level. For example, the Loy Krathong festival, held annually on the night of the November full moon in honour of the "Mother of Waters", reputedly evolved in its present form at the court of King Ramkamhaeng. Today, while celebrated throughout the country, it is still best seen amongst the ruins of the first capital.

As the cornerstone of the nation, Sukhothai represents for the ordinary Thai a kind of semi-mythical golden age. For the historian it stands as the crucible from which poured forth art and architectural styles that survived to influence every succeeding generation of artists and craftsmen. And for today's visitor, this cultural centre of Thailand, freshly restored, offers some magnificent sights.

The surviving remains of Sukhothai are largely examples of religious architecture. Most distinctive are the chedis, many of which remain intact in their basic structure. The major accompanying temple buildings have fared less well. At best, only supporting pillars and platforms bearing Buddha statues have survived, and walls are evidenced only by foundations.

Nonetheless, the extent of Sukhothai's monuments and their tranquil setting are impressive and evocative, capable of recalling the full measure of past achievements. The best starting point for a tour of the site is the Museum. Here there is a good collection of sculpture and other artifacts which give a useful introduction to the period.

From the museum it is just a few step to the heart of the ancient city and Wat Mahathat. This is the biggest and most magnificent of Sukhothai's temples and is dominated by a chedi in the form of a lotus bud. On the surrounding platform are four stupas and four prangs, while the base is decorated with stucco figures of Buddhist disciples. To the sides are two giant statues of the standing Buddha, and on the eastern side are twin rows of pillars and a platform with a large image of the seated Buddha.

This is a classic Sukhothai monument while close by Khmer influences can be seen in Wat Sri Sawai. Comprising three large prangs, it possibly pre-dates the founding of the Thai capital and was likely first built as a shrine to the Hindu god Siva before being converted to Buddhist use.

Also of note in this central area are the ruins of Wat Trapang Ngoen, picturesquely sited on an island in the middle of an ornamental lake, and Wat Sra Sri which has a fine Sri Lankan-style chedi.

Of the several monuments located outside the old city walls, two are not to be missed. Wat Phr Phai Luang, lying about a 10-minute walk beyond the northern gateway, is an extensive ruin that rivals Wat Mahathat in importance. Its Khmer-style prang (there were originally three, but only one remains standing) predates the Thai period and in all three separate stages of construction can be discerned as the once Hindu shrine was converted to a Buddhist temple. In front of the prang are the ruins of a viharn and a chedi, the base of the latter being decorated with stucco Buddha images. Nearby is a mondop (square shrine) enclosing the ruined statues of the Buddha in walking, standing, sitting and reclining postures.

Southwest of Wat Phra Phai Luang, Wat Si Chum is impressive for its huge mondop built around an enormous stucco-over-brick statue of the seated Buddha, measuring 11.3 metres across the lap. Inside the walls of the mondop is a narrow passage where the ceiling is decorated with beautifully engraved slaps illustrating scenes from the Jataka tales, the previous incarnations of the Buddha.

These monuments are but the quintessential sights of Sukhothai, and the visitor can easily spend a full day -- or two -- exploring the many other ruins contained within this most intriguing historical park. As you wander about a picture begins to form in the mind's eye, showing just how marvellous the city must have been in its heyday.

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