By John Hoskin
"For all the desolate, miserable,
god-forsaken places on this earth, Sukhothai must surely be the
worst." So wrote Reginald Campbell in Teak-Wallah, an account
of his time as a forestry official in northern Thailand in the
1920s.Perhaps Sukhothai, 450 kilometres north of
Bangkok, is not one of Thailand's most attractive
towns, but just 12 kilometres away are the magnificent
ruins of the Kingdom's first capital, from which
the modern town takes its name.
Mr Campbell may have had a blind spot for the
history and culture of his host country, though
his complete silence on the historical remains
of Sukhothai (they should have at least provided
some respite from the boredom of which he complained
so bitterly) is indicative of the neglect the
ancient site has suffered until comparatively
recently. In Campbell's day the ruins may have
been all but obscured by jungle. Today's traveller is more fortunate.
Following the completion of a 10-year UNESCO restoration project,
Sukhothai now beckons as a fascinating historical park. Full
former glory is beyond retrieval, but the ruins that remain mark
the cultural centre of Thailand and offer a superb insight into
the early flowering of Thai civilization.
Within the confines of the ancient
city's ramparts are more than 20 major monuments, while numerous
other sights are scattered throughout the park which covers a
total area of 70 square kilometres. The ruins have been restored
to the limits of their state of preservation and stand amid manicured
lawns and ornamental ponds, themselves set off by a distant background
of wooded hills.
Originally an outpost of the Khmer
empire centred on Angkor in Cambodia, Sukhothai achieved independence
in the first half of the 13th century when two Thai chieftains
rallied their formerly disunited people and established the first
sovereign Thai state. With the influence of both Pagan to the
west and Angkor to the east declining at this time, Sukhothai
was well poised to become not only the capital of a new kingdom,
but also a regional political and cultural centre of the first
order.
As the undisputed power base of the
new Thai nation, Sukhothai reigned supreme for only 140 years.
In 1378 it became a vassal of up-and-coming Ayutthaya to the
south; 60 years later it was totally absorbed by the younger
Thai kingdom, and finally it was abandoned around the end of
the 15th century. Yet in that brief time it established religious,
cultural and political patterns that have never been completely
obliterated. Accordingly the ruins that survive today are of
paramount historical significance.
The history of Sukhothai in the Khmer
period is still not fully understood. Khmer architectural influences
are readily discernable in the ruins of a few temples, notably
the earliest parts of Wat Si Sawai and Wat Phra Phai Luang, but
it is unclear whether the site was a full-fledged Khmer settlement
or merely a military stronghold. But whatever they did inherit
from the Khmers, it is obvious that the Thais wasted little time
in constructing their own capital on a scale and in a style befitting
the birth of a nation.
In the first two reigns -- those
of King Sri Intratit and his son, King Ban Muang (died c.1279)
-- nothing disturbed the peace of the young kingdom which at
the time extended little beyond the capital and the second city
of Si Satchanalai some 70 kilometres to the north. It was in
the reign of King Ramkamhaeng (c.1279-1299) that Sukhothai experienced
its golden age. Under this monarch's masterful leadership the
kingdom was consolidated, politically through territorial gains
and culturally through the adoption, from Sri Lanka, of Theravada
Buddhism.
It was Theravada Buddhism that served
-- as it still does -- as the principal cohesive force in the
Thai state. The Sri Lankan school of Buddhism further had enormous
impact on art and architecture, its influence distinguishing
the Sukhothai achievement above all else.More