A comfortable walk south from the museum leads to Wat Matchimawat on Saiburi Road. Set in its own extensive compound, the temple is eye-catching in its lavish ornamentation -- notable are the figures carved on the doors and window shutters -- but it is the interior of the main hall (bot) that is truly enchanting, with all four walls covered with colourful mural paintings which not only display traditional scenes drawn from the Jataka tales of the Buddha's previous lives, but also show lively cameos of daily life in 19th-century Songkhla. In all a minor gem.

Directly west of the Wat Matchimawat are the parallel streets of Nang Ngam, Nakon Nai and Nakhon Nawk which in their mix of Chinese, Portuguese and Malay architectural styles give the most vivid impression of how Songkhla must have appeared a century ago. The district is gradually changing, although for the moment an unusually strong sense of history lingers.

On this western side of town is the lakeside fishing port, an atmospheric spot full of activity with baskets of fish being unloaded, boats taking on ice before heading out to sea, and all the usual bustle of a working port and fish market. Away to the south, 10-minute taxi ride, the quintessential local fishing scene is even more pronounced at Khao Saen, a Muslim village set against a rocky headland. Drawn up on the beach here are brightly painted and ornamented fishing boats traditional to the region, the symbolism and ritual elements of the designs contrasting with the hard-nosed business of the bustling late afternoon fish market.

While there is sufficient to hold the interest in Songkhla itself, excursions beyond to the bridged lake island of Ko Yo and continuing north up the coast offer a couple of worthwhile attractions as well as affording a pretty drive.

Ko Yo is locally famous for its cotton-weaving industry and some good buys can be had, although the island is most remarkable for its Southern Folklore Museum. Run by the Institute of Southern Thai Studies, this is a surprising find in what is seemingly the middle of nowhere.

Exhibits of diverse artifacts are extremely well displayed in a series of airconditioned rooms to give a valuable introduction to the local cultural and the influences that have shaped the region's history. Even more stunning are the views from the hilltop museum, looking down on one side to fishing villages around the lake and on the other to Tinsulanonda Bridge, Thailand's longest concrete span.

Further north, along a thin strip of land which separates the lake from the sea, leads to to Khu Khut Waterbird Park, a 520 square kilometre sanctuary on the Thale Sap. These wetlands are a habitat for some 200 resident and migrant bird species, and the area as whole is an attractive spot whether or not ornithology is your interest. a pleasant hour or two can be had hiring a boat at the park office and cruising the shallow waters of the lake.

With all its interest and scenic setting, it is ironic that Songkhla has historically been on the map for centuries and yet remains largely obscure to the present-day traveller, lost in the shadows cast by Hat Yai's brash commercialism. Rediscovering its simple charm you realize there is more to southern Thailand than business and beach holidays.