Attracting half a million tourists a year, mostly from Malaysia, Hat Yai commercially overshadows its own provincial capital, Songkhla, which remains aloof from the unbridled pursuit of profit. Should business take you to the former, it is to the latter that you'll want to escape.

In contrast to Hat Yai's urban jumble, Songkhla presents a relaxing air of quiet sophistication. Its wide streets are bordered by refreshing greenery, while a number of historic buildings remain to give an intriguing sense of the past. Add to this an exceptional location, along with several decent restaurants and comfortable if unpretentious accommodation, and you have the ideal spot for a few lazy days of sightseeing and simply getting away from its all.

There is nothing new about Songkhla offering a tranquil refuge. More than a thousand years ago the advantages of the site were appreciated by early seafarers. The location occupies a small peninsula jutting from the mainland to form a channel that creates a natural harbour at the mouth of the huge Thale Sap (Songkhla Lake), an inland sea which stretches away to the north. The town thus fits snugly between the Gulf of Thailand to the east and the fertile waters of the lake to the west.

Long ago, merchants from Persia, India and Sumatra thought the site appeared like a sleeping lion and named it Singhala (Lion City). The Malays called it Singora, while later it became known in modern Thai as Songkhla. The name changes reflect a rich and eventful history which accounts for the town's present colourful character that blends Thai, Chinese and Malay influences, witnessed most readily in the architecture and the local cuisine.

In recent years, the discovery of natural gas in the Gulf has brought a small influx of expat oil workers. While this has prompted the development of accommodation facilities, along with a dash of unobtrusive nightlife, it has scarcely ruffled Songkhla's laid-back charm.

The most notable change of late has been the demise of the old Samila Hotel, formerly Songkhla's top property with an unbeatable location facing the beach on the northeast corner of town, next to the tiny golf course. Not all is lost, however, and past glories will be reincarnated with the new Samila Beach Hotel & Resort presently under construction on the same site. In the meantime, the best accommodation is to be found at the very comfortable Pavilion Songkhla Thani located in the town centre.

Dining out in Songkhla is not limited to hotels, and the town boasts a surprising number of small but good restaurants serving fresh seafood and other typical southern Thai dishes. Long established local favourite for seafood is the Tae restaurant on Nang Ngam Road in the old quarter, while the Choeng Thian, at 70/2 Raman Road can also be recommended with a cosy interior to complement the excellent food. Alternatively, there is a gaggle of restaurants along Samila Beach on the northwest side of town. Recommendations here include Buakaew, at 20 Ratchadamnoen Road, and Mark Restaurant which is located further along the coast where the beach starts to curve north.

In spite of the 3-kilometre sandy stretch of Samila Beach, pleasantly fringed with evergreens, the seaside is not Songkhla's main attraction. The beaches are undeveloped and watersports are virtually unknown. You can take pony rides on Samila Beach, or stroll along the sands and see the mermaid statue that looks as if it has taken a vacation from Copenhagen, but the real pleasure of Songkhla is exploring the town. There are no monumental sights, instead expect serendipitous surprises as you wander around.

To get a an idea of Songkhla's exceptional location it is worth making the stiff climb up Khao Tung Kuan hill on the northwestern side of town. A flight of naga-balustraded steps leads off Ratchadamnoen Road, passing half way a curious 19th-century brick pavilion of Chinese and European architecture before reaching the summit where there is a chedi and a lighthouse. From here there are panoramic views of the town, the fishing port and the vast expanse of the Thale Sap.

Close by the western foot of Khao Tung Kuan are the ruins of Laem Sai Fort, built by the French in the 17th century as part of the fortifications protecting the all-important channel leading into the lake. Low walls and a few cannon remain to give a fair impression of the original flavour of what was once a heavily fortified town. More.