Know in Thai as I-san, the region is the least changed part of the country. It is also the poorest area with an agriculture-based economy blighted by low-yield soil and unpredictable rains. Yet in spite of a relatively low standard of living -- or perhaps because of it -- cultural traditions are here better preserved than elsewhere in Thailand. Populating the area are a people who speak their own dialect, have their own highly-spiced cuisine, and possess a truly hospitable and fun-loving nature.

Bordered to the north and east by the Mekong River and Laos, and to the south by Cambodia, I-san is the largest of the country's five major topographical regions, and is made up of mostly a semi arid plateau with forested mountains in the northwest. Although the northeast contains four of Thailand's most populous cities -- Khon Kaen, Ubon Ratchathani, Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) and Udon Thani -- it covers about one-third of the country's land mass, and thus appears sparsely populated and intensely rural.

The bucolic charm, however, serves merely as a fascinating backdrop to a number of more obvious tourist sights. Archaeologically and historically, I-san is of prime importance and to tour the region is to glimpse far back in time.

The single most significant site is Ban Chiang, a small village about 50 kilometres east of Udon Thani. Archaeological discoveries made in the 1970s produced evidence of a Bronze Age civilization that flourished over 5,000 years ago. This predates sites in China and Mesopotamia as the earliest known evidence of an agrarian, bronze-making culture, and suggests that the Khorat plateau may be one of the possible "cradles of civilization".

Excavation work has been completed at Ban Chiang and while the best finds are now exhibited in Bangkok and Khon Kaen museums, a visit to the village is still well worthwhile. In a temple compound two excavation pits have been left open to display numerous finds in situ, offering a vivid insight into the excitement of a major archaeological discovery.

Another ancient site is Pha Taem in the Khong Chiam district of Ubon Ratchathani. Here reasonably well preserved prehistoric rock paintings extend for over one and a half kilometers along an imposing cliff face which commands an attractive location overlooking the Mekong River.
 

Moving into the era of recorded history, the Northeast possesses the 
finest surviving examples of ancient Khmer temples to be seen outside Cambodia. Four of the best monuments are within easy half- or full-day excursions from Nakhon Ratchasima. About 60 kilometres north of that town is Phimai, the most famous of the Khmer sites. It comprises an extensive, 12th-century temple complex which has been restored by Thailand's Fine Arts Department to enable full appreciation of its original grandeur and the architectural achievement it represents.More

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