After jostling in the market a leisurely
time can be had exploring Mae Hong Son's only other physical
attractions, a handful of Burmese-style temples.
Dominating the western edge of town is Doi Kong Mu, a 424-metre
high peak topped by Wat Phrathat Doi Kong Mu. The two chedis
here and the several surrounding images are fascinating, but
the real reward is the magnificent bird's eye view of Mae Hong
Son, the fertile valley in which it lies and the encircling high
mountains. The enchantment is magnified by the tinkling of the
bells atop the chedis.
Of the town's few other temples,
Wat Chong Kam and Wat Chong Klang are located beside the town's
small and extremely picturesque lake. Both temples have attractive
Burmese-style architecture, and of special interest at Wat Chong
Klang is a collection of Burmese wooden dolls, the tallest about
1 metre high, representing figures from one of the traditional
stories about the Buddha's previous lives.
Wat Hoa Wieng in the town centre
looks uninspiring from the outside but does house a rather fine
bronze seated Buddha, a copy of a statue in Mandalay. Two other
temples, Wat Phra Non and Wat Kham Kho, stand at the foot of
Doi Kong Mu, the former boasting a 12-metre-long Burmese-style
reclining Buddha image.
The main halls of these typically
local temples are characteristically wooden affairs, raised on
stilts and with sides either open or partially closed by wooden
slats. The most arresting aspect of the architectural style,
however, is the roof which climaxes in a series of tottering
tiers. Corrugated iron is the principal material used, yet ugliness
is avoided by the highly ornate eaves decorated with filigree
work in zinc or wood. The overall effect is curious rather than
beautiful, though there is considerable fascination in the contrast
with temples seen elsewhere in Thailand.
Beyond Mae Hong Son are numerous
other attractions. Besides the quite superb mountain scenery
(the most breathtaking vistas are some 50 kms north of Mae Hong
Son along the Pai road), natural sights include Tham Pla (Fish
Cave), 17km from town, Pha Sua waterfall (28km) and Tham Lod
cave (80km), a splendid cavern with a stream running through
it. There are also numerous hilltribe villages and settlements
of Padaung, a Burmese ethnic minority coarsely referred to as
"longnecks" on account of the women adorning themselves
with many bands of brass neck-rings. Excursions to these attractions
by jeep, elephant back or riverboat, as well as by trekking,
are readily available from tour agents in town.
Tranquil, self-content and set in
some of Thailand's finest hill country, Mae Hong Son is somewhere
special. It offers peace and quiet, but the promise of getting
you away from it all is most surely fulfilled by the town's unique
character. That has yet to change, though perhaps it is only
a matter of time. But time is something Mae Hong Son seems to
possess in plenty.
