Most of the dishes people cooked in those days were simple to make, using ingredients that could be found nearby. In the kitchen there would be chili, shrimp paste, fish sauce, sour tamarind, garlic, shallots, and dried fish.

Fresh indigenous Thai vegetables like phak bung, phak krachet, krathin and bamboo shoots could be found growing almost anywhere. A meal made up of nam phrik kapi (chili paste), grilled fish, boiled phak bung leaves, and perhaps a hot kaeng som curry could be prepared in just half an hour or so.
 

Traditionally, Thai food used commonly found plants and meats as ingredients. Fish was by far the most widely used meat, as it was available in all seasons, wet or dry. In the rainy season, when the rivers and canals were full, there were obviously plenty of local fresh-water fish. Even when the weather turned dry and hot, there were still catfish, snake-heads and other species to be found in ponds and lakes. Some were cooked, others were stored. Small fish would be fermented to make pla ra and fish
sauce to be kept for future use. Larger ones would be salted.

Chicken, duck, and pork were eaten only on special occasions. Beef and the meat of the water buffalo were not eaten by Thais of earlier eras, as they revered the animals as man's helpers in the fields.

Vegetables consisted of local edible plants, of which there were many; Thai cooks used a total of 255 species. These fell into five categories: leaf plants, root plants, edible flowers, seed pods, and fruiting plants. Most of these plants appeared only in a certain season. Therefore, in every part of Thailand, the foods people ate would change as the months passed.

But there was more to preparing these Thai dishes than just gathering some local plants and meats and throwing them into a pot. Flavors had to be balanced and blended. Nam phrik kapi, the most popular of the Thai repertoire of chili sauces, combines heat from chilies, sweetness, and saltiness. To create a proper balance of flavors, small, pea-sized eggplants called makhuea phuang are added to give it a needed bitter tang. If they are left out, the dish loses its characteristic taste and no longer qualifies as nam phrik.

Dishes eaten during the winter, such as the soup-like kaeng liang made from gourds or other bland vegetables, need the heat of peppercorns and shallots, as well as the fragrant leaf of the basil plant to make them savory and appetizing.

Kaeng som, a soup-like dish that combines sourness and sweetness, comes close to being a Thai "national dish", as variants of it are eaten in all regions of the country. In the Central Plains and the North, tamarind (makham piak) is used to give it its sour bite. North easterners use the acid leaves of the okra plant (called bai phodi or "just-enough leaves" in Thai because no matter how many of them are added, the sourness is somehow always just right). In the South, if there is no sour tamarind available, another type called makham khaek is substituted.

Kathi, or coconut cream, is common in Thai cooking. In earlier times, however, it was not used at all. When curries that make use of it like kaeng kari and kaeng massaman were imported from India, they brought the use of coconut cream and their characteristic spices with them. Eventually, the creamy extract of coconut meat had found a central place in recipes that we today consider completely Thai, such as kaeng khiao wan, the spicy curry that is so popular everywhere.

Sweets that make use of coconut cream were also introduced from India. Custard-like khanom mo kaeng is an example. The original version from India used flour, sugar, and milk, but milk was scarce at the time when it found its way into Thai kitchens, so cooks used coconut cream instead.

Fried foods also came from abroad, but their place of origin was China. The iron frying utensils called katha in Thai originally had to be imported from China, and the technique of cooking using hot oil came together with the introduction of Chinese vegetables that taste best when prepared that way, such as Chinese broccoli and Chinese radish.

Noodle dishes like the kuai tiao soup sold on street stalls everywhere also originated in China. Those found in Thailand have been given a strong Thai character. The best known is kuai tiao phad Thai, the "Thai fry" which has made a reputation for itself all over the world.

The original Thai style ice cream was sold from little boats that were paddled along the city's canals. Its main ingredient was coconut cream, but not the extremely thick and heavy kind. It was not especially sweet, either. The ice cream was stirred and chilled until it was of a runny, slushy consistency, rather than hardened to the point where it could be formed into scoops, as it is today.

Ice cream is not alone in having been adapted and altered under the influence of new or imported trends and techniques. Centuries ago, food prepared for the royal court was the product of extremely elaborate and complex cooking methods. Khao chae, for example, was originally a special dish served to the court on Songkran, the traditional Thai New Year. The most fastidious care was given to selecting every grain of rice to ensure that it was perfect, with no husk adhering to it.

When served in the chilled, scented water that gives this dish its unique character, it is delicious. The various side dishes are easy to prepare :fried and shredded salted beef, fried leaf vegetables, Chinese radish, and other simple things. But as served in the palace, these side dishes were delicacies whose preparation required the highest artistry. Fresh vegetables served with the royal khao chae were carved, for example,
often to form ornamental sculptures of fantastic delicacy. Such items were part of a special culinary repertoire known as Royal Cuisine.

Today, the original range of Thai dishes has spread out to include many imports and innovations, while the old recipes they are based upon become increasingly hard to find. The sour-salty-hot salad known as yam was once almost exclusively a vegetable dish. But as time went on, approaches to the dish diversified. Glass noodles are now commonly added.

Vegetables used in making these evolving dishes permitted new shades of variety. As one type went out of season, another would appear and be experimentally substituted, leading to tasty new discoveries. Old-fashioned kaeng liang nam tao, a kind of traditional vegetable soup made with green gourds, tasted fine when made with local pumpkin. As new vegetables from abroad appeared in the markets, it was found that interesting versions could be made from baby corn or shredded carrots. But with these additions came depletion's. Few among the new generation of cooks, for example, knows how to use bai maeng lak, one of the fragrant types of basil that lent its distinctive aroma to so many of the dishes relished by Thai's of earlier eras.

Food is like music created through the ages to give pleasure, down to the latest generation with its contemporary tastes. Today, many more people buy the food they eat than cook it themselves. A wide variety of commercially prepared foods is therefore available to keep everyone happy. If a food shop offers cooking that people don't like, it won't last long, but on the other hand, the more new and exciting recipes a commercial cook can devise, the more people he or she will attract.

Therefore, the art of cooking as it is today doesn't really differ that much from what it was in the old days. It is an organic, growing tradition that continues to recruit the ingredients at hand to produce its distinctive, unmistakably Thai creations.

Thai-style health food

Grassroots wisdom associates good health with the right variety of food. Traditional Thai medicines have meanwhile been for centuries the only dependable curative offered by local healers. These medicines have mostly been derived from indigenous plants found in the wild. Though modern practice has changed medical thinking, belief in natural medicines is still strong.

Most of the ingredients used in Thai cooking carry medicinal benefits. In the past, Thai thinkers studied the effects of natural conditions which brought on various physical ailments. They counteracted them with natural products that offered the opposite effect: cooling herbs or fruits for an imbalance of heat, for instance.

The summer heat is relentless in Thailand. It activates the element of fire in our bodies, causing headaches, thirst, and sometimes constipation. The conventional antidote is simple - anything sweet or bitter will do! Tamarinds, oranges, acacia, gourd, pineapples, and water melons are all effective. Greasy or spicy foods are advised against, as they will only heat up the body. Durian, jangfruit, and longans may be tempting, but they have similar consequences.

The element of wind blows blustery inside the body during the wet season. It is easy to catch a cold or suffer flatulence. The cure: add some spices. Fiery vegetables such as chilies, sweet basil, fennel, and ginger can warm up the body and soothe these unpleasant conditions.

In winter, the commonest complaints are dry skin, headaches, running nose, and indigestion. Hot, bitter, and sour foods are recommended. Seek out dishes containing peppers, chilies, turmeric, galingale, or other spicy ingredients.

Cooking schools

The Oriental Hotel : Long recognized for its outstanding cuisine, the Oriental reveals the secrets of Thai cooking in a complete course that explores all its subtle details. The school is run by some of the country's most experienced chefs and lecturers. Conducted in English, each class of the four-day course consists of a brief lecture, a demonstration, and hands-on preparation. Tuition includes fruit and vegetable carving
and menu making. Contact the Thai Cooking School, The Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok, Thailand. Tel: (662) 2380265. Fax: (662) 4397587.

Dusit Thani Hotel : Benjarong Royal Thai Cuisine at the Dusit Thani Hotel is one of the most sumptuous Thai restaurants in Bangkok. Its head chef runs the Benjarong Cooking Class every Saturday. Dishes demonstrated are highly sophisticated, including many served at the royal palace. The school also conducts fruit carving courses. Contact Benjarong Cooking Class, Dusit Thani Hotel, Bangkok, Thailand. Tel: (662) 2366400, 2367238.

The Landmark Hotel : A team from the hotel's famous Nipa restaurant teaches novices how to master the art of Thai cuisine. In a short time, students will be able to prepare their own curries, soups and other delicious Thai dishes. The Landmark's step-by-step Thai cookbook is free of charge to participants in the five-day course. Contact the Landmark Bangkok, Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok, Thailand. Tel: (662) 2540404.

Siam Inter-Continental Bangkok : The hotel presents a cooking class featuring the full range of typical Thai food from appetizers to favorite main courses to traditional desserts. The course is conducted by expert Thai chefs. Contact Siam Inter-Continental Bangkok, Rama I Road, Bangkok, Thailand. Tel: (662) 2530355.

The Boathouse, Phuket : Learning to cook Thai food is a unique experience you can take home with you. The Boathouse runs Thai cooking classes every Saturday and Sunday morning. Classes are limited to ten participants to encourage personal interaction by the students. Each recipe presented has been selected for ease of preparation and  adaptability to Western kitchens. The resort's executive chef leads the class step by step and explains the processes and techniques in fluent English. Hands-on experience is emphasized. Culinary Workshops at The Boathouse, Patak Road, Kata Beach, Phuket, Thailand. Tel: (66-76) 330015-7 Fax: (66-76) 330561. Bangkok office:(662) 4392312, 4394740-4.

UFM Baking & Cooking School : The comprehensive courses of UFM Baking & Cooking School can transform you from a novice to an expert. Dishes both simple and complicated, as well as regional specialties, are demonstrated by experienced chefs. Specialized courses on nam phrik (chili pastes), yam (spicy salads), and others are also available. Contact UFM Baking & Cooking School, Sukhumvit 33, Bangkok, Thailand.
Tel: (662) 2590620-3.

Modern Women Institute : The Modern Women Institute organizes classes in Thai, Chinese, and European cooking and bakery. The Thai cooking classes offer an opportunity to learn all the basic knowledge needed to make curries, chilli pastes, noodles, and Thai desserts. Contact the Modern Women Institute, Samsen, Bangkok, Thailand. Tel: (662) 2792831, 2792834.

The Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School : Two experienced Thai chefs run casual cooking classes of one, two, or three days in fluent English at Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School. Traditional northern dishes are included such as nam phrik ong, or northern style chilli paste, for which students will learn how to use the mortar and pestle. Students are served lunches at khan toke tables while the chefs demonstrate the use of northern cooking utensils and serving dishes. Contact the Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School, Moon Muang Road, Chiang Mai, Thailand. Tel: (66-53) 206388. Fax: (66-53) 206387.

Food streets & hawker streets

Yaowarat: Bangkok's Chinatown houses some of the best and most expensive Chinese restaurants in the city, along with many of the best and cheapest food stalls, especially at night. The restaurants mostly specialise in southern Chinese cooking, with noodles, seafood and, at lunch time, dim sum dumplings dominating the menus.

Large restaurants line the bustling Yaowarat Road, but venturing into sois, or lanes, will lead you to less impressive yet equally enjoyable establishments. The commonest dish is undoubtedly kuai tiao, or noodles. Hundreds of kuai tiao shops dot the area. Each vendor has his or her own recipe: kuai tiao pla (noodles with fish), kuai tiao pet (with duck), or kuai tiao kai (with chicken).

Yaowarat never sleeps. At night the neon glow from hundreds of hawker stalls electrifies the atmosphere of the streets. Ad hoc seafood's stalls line the sidewalks, drawing such crowds that late-comers have to wait for seats. Suki yaki stalls are equally thronged. Long queues in front of stalls selling bird's nest soups indicate the everlasting popularity of this conventional nutritious sweet. Other favorite dishes include khao tom, (boiled rice), khao kha mu (stewed pork leg on rice), and many, many more.

Phahurat: Taking a short walk from Yaowarat's Chinatown to Phahurat's little India is like taking a transcendental journey between two different worlds. Inhabited by Thai people of Indian origin, the confined alleyways around the Phahurat area accommodate a number of authentic Indian restaurants, particularly those offering North Indian cuisine. Alternatively other sub-continental foods such as Punjabi and Pakistani are also plentifully available. The atmosphere around Phahurat is less chaotic than Yaowarat, yet the vivacity can still be felt in this small but thriving neighborhood.

Sukhumvit Road: There is no shortage of eating places on Sukhumvit. Some people even say that from any spot along the road, you are within 100 meters of at least one restaurant. And the food could not be more cosmopolitan. At its western end, around Soi Nana, an enclave of Pakistani and Middle Eastern restaurants fills the sois with the aroma of spices, earning this area the name "Little Arabia". These include casual outdoor cafes such as Al Hossini and luxurious indoor places such as Shiraz.

Further up the road Indian cuisine takes over, with restaurants offering both northern and southern Indian specialities. From the elegance of Rang Mahal on the top floor of Rembrandt Hotel to the modest ambience of Mrs Balbir's, the rich Indian cuisine is presented in all its variety.

European and American cooking balance the equation, with Italian, French, British, German, and Mexican restaurants lining the road and presenting a variety of options in terms of menus, atmosphere, and prices. Sukhumvit 55, also known as Soi Thonglor, and its labyrinthine branches are also full of restaurants of every kind.

Then there is Thai food. Both authentic and nouvelle dishes can be found at small, sparingly decorated restaurants or lavishly ornate ones, along the pavements, and in the markets. The food is good everywhere. After all, it's the taste and not always the place that really matters.

Silom Road: Several food streets are linked to this road in Bangkok's busiest area. Many restaurants are found along the main thoroughfare, but there is an even greater number tucked away in its side alleys. As if awakened by street lights, seafood stalls sprout along the section near Saladaeng Intersection after sunset until late at night. The nearby Convent Road offers everything from Indonesian to an Irish tavern. Opposite, a crush of Japanese restaurants makes Soi Thaniya into a lively walkway for Japanese visitors and sushi lovers of all nationalities.

Thai food is available in palace style and street style, side by side. The best selection of the former can be found in Soi Pipat. Find the Thai version of fast food at Soi Prachaen's night market and Soi Lalai Sap's lunch market. Dozens of vendors sell quick meals such as kuai tiao noodle and khao kaeng curry rice. A good one-stop eating place is Silom Village in Soi 24, where food in a variety of Thai styles is served in a relaxing atmosphere.

Siam Square: This shopping area is crammed with medium to high-priced eateries as well as American fast-food outlets. Whether you crave Thai, European, or Chinese foods, there is a place for you somewhere in this fashionable area. Traditional Thai restaurants are flanked by gaudy fast-food franchises and Japanese suki parlours. Soi 1 has conventional Chinese restaurants.

Bangkok's branch of Hard Rock Cafe is just up the street. Undecided? Family restaurants such as S&P or New Light have everything in one menu. Dozens of food stalls sell meatballs, grilled squid. and fried bananas along the walkways that connect the main streets. 

Soi Lang Suan: Fashionable restaurants in Soi Lang Suan present interesting eating possibilities at medium to high prices. Also home to some of the most popular jazz pubs in the city, the street's flashy atmosphere attracts the money crowd in droves after sundown. Like Sukhumvit Road, Lang Suan offers a diverse mix of Thai, Asian, and European influences aided by specialized venues such as the vegetarian-oriented Whole Earth Restaurant and the Chinese favorite Nguan Lee.

Bang Lamphu: Shoestring travellers flock to Bang Lamphu, especially the area around Khao Sarn Road. Most eating places in this area cater for budget-conscious diners. Many guest houses on Khao Sarn Road have open-air cafes serving standard Thai and Chinese dishes. Other decent possibilities include Indian, Jewish, and Muslim restaurants. Many unassuming Chinese dim sum and noodle places may be found
along the adjacent Phra Athit Road. Bold exploration is advised in this interesting neighborhood.

Chang Klan Road, Chiang Mai: People know it as the Night Bazaar, but this shopping area also has food markets hidden behind the souvenir stalls. Kad Anusarn is a big food plaza with miscellaneous offerings that include authentic northern dishes and a strong southern Chinese influence. Street stalls display colorful Thai sweets and preserved northern fruits such as plums.